Sunday, November 27, 2022

Evening Hill Diaries - Part 2. From September 2022

Salisbury Cathedral - see below
Photograph copyright Stephanie Welch


October 9th, 2022

 

“I saw a lone rower carving across the Arno.  The foothills were darkening, and the cypress trees around San Miniato were topped by a ghostly mist.  Ochre walls appeared more golden as the sun softened.  Lights appeared throughout the city and took their place on the surface of the river.  The rower slipped through this spectacle of light.  Water dripped off the blades of his oars, and momentarily I was in that drip.  Falling into the green twilight depths of history.”

 

“Pistol is embedded in a high moor, snug and warm, for all its eminence. The moor itself is girt with waving woods that stretch and toss for miles, making a deep sloping sash of foliage which Autumn will dye with such grave glory that the late loss of Summer and her pretty ways seems easier to bear. Orange and purple, copper and gold, russet and crimson—these in a hundred tones tremble and glow in one giant harmony, out of which, at the release of sun, come swelling chords so deep and rich and vivid that the sweet air is quick with stifled music and every passing breeze charged to the full with silent melody.”

 

Two passages of purple prose, separated by 100 years, 1921 and 2021.  Can you guess which is which?

 

I’m interested in purple prose – in some cases evidence of a certain pretentiousness in writing, in others, perhaps evocative of a scene or visual picture that lingers in the memory.

The first of the above is taken from Sarah Winman’s novel, Still Life, published in 2021, and the second is from the deeply unfashionable Dornford Yates’ ‘Berry & Co’, published in 1921.  As an avid reader, when I was a child, apart from visiting the library, I read all the books my parents had on their bookshelves, including most of the Dornford Yates oeuvre.  I loved them.  Yates, John Buchan, and ‘Sapper’ (H.C. McNeile), early 20th century writers with much in common, were all covered in a biography called ‘Clubland Heroes’ by Richard Usborne.  The best description I can give of Dornford Yates’ output comes from Alan Bennett, in his play ‘Forty Years On’: “Sapper, Buchan, Dornford Yates, practitioners in that school of Snobbery with Violence that runs like a thread of good-class tweed through twentieth-century literature.”

Brilliantly, Bennett captures the genre.  I love that phrase ‘Snobbery with Violence’.  A later critic points out that James Bond, Ian Fleming’s creation, is perhaps the last in the sequence.

But Dylan Thomas once said that one should not be ashamed of our influences, when young.  He said in a lecture: ‘I read (past tense) everything I could get my little trotters on.’

It is hard to distinguish pretentious writing from good writing.  Ernest Hemingway is a master of vivid description, but rarely descends to the level of purple prose.  His gift of simplicity led William Faulkner to write: ‘He has never been known to use a word that might send a reader to the dictionary.’  The opening page of Steinbeck’s ‘Grapes of Wrath’ is a magnificent, almost biblical scene setting of the drought that created the American dust bowl.  By contrast, the opening lines of ‘The Bridges of Madison County’ are by an author striving for effect and wanting to be remembered as a master in the style of Steinbeck:

‘There are songs that come free from the blue-eyed grass, from the dust of a thousand country roads, this is one of them.’  (1992; Robert James Waller).

‘Pretentious, moi?’ (vide: Fawlty Towers)

If you haven’t read ‘The Bridges of Madison County’, you are in a substantial minority.  If you have not seen the film, starring Clint Eastwood and Meryl Streep, you might enjoy this 1995 review from the Washington Post about it, ‘A Bridge’s over Troubled Water’ by Ed Schneider:

https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1995/07/06/a-bridges-over-troubled-water/86849fd7-17a9-4ee5-b319-da337f2bdb35/

About Meryl Streep in the film, a friend of Schneider’s stated; ‘The first hour was really boring; there were only so many times I could watch her peel carrots.’

Critics remain divided about the novella.  The plot motif has striking similarities to Noel Coward’s 1936 play, Still Life (Still Life again!), which became the famous film ‘Brief Encounter’.

 

Poole Harbour, near Evening Hill, 30th September

The above is a needful parenthesis, to sandwich between the late Queen’s obsequies and the very real issues facing our country and the world in general in the late summer and Autumn of 2022.

With regard to the Queen, the suddenness of her demise indicates some major event such as a stroke, haemorrhage, overwhelming sepsis, or a cardiac event.  Her medical attendants have delivered a classic ‘cop out’ by signing the cause of death as ‘old age’.  It is only relatively recently that it has become acceptable to write ‘old age’ on a death certificate.  When I qualified it was drummed into us that this was a ‘no-no’.  The need to put down an exact cause of death was probably partly responsible for the complete inaccuracy of most death certificates.  In many studies, where post-mortem examinations had been performed, it was shown that the true cause of death was different to that stated on a certificate in at least 50% of cases.  There are rumours that Queen Elizabeth was suffering from myeloma, but the hugger-mugger nature of ‘The Firm’ means that we may never know.  A subsequent article by a journalist doctor in the Telegraph condemns the practice of signing ‘Old Age’ on a certificate.

A classic case of inaccurate diagnosis for example, was of a General Practitioner, who had recently been discovered to have stenoses (narrowings) in both carotid arteries (the major vessels which supply blood to the brain), who dropped dead during his evening surgery.  His medical partners signed a certificate to the effect that he had suffered a stroke, despite the fact that stroke death is not instantaneous.  We know from studies in Framingham, Massachusetts that the commonest mode of death in people found to have carotid artery disease is a heart attack, which of course through cardiac arrhythmia may lead to instantaneous death.

‘The End is Nigh’.  This trope, proclaimed by many, often carrying placards, was, I thought, emblazoned on a board carried by an eccentric character who used to walk down Oxford Street on most days during the time when I was a medical student in London.  It is not mentioned in the obituaries of this man, Stanley Green, and certainly it is true that the obverse side of his plaque drew attention to his belief that violence and lust was due to excessive protein intake.  ‘Less lust, Less protein’ was the main message of his banner.  But ‘The End is Nigh’ comes to mind when we consider what is happening in the world today.

To return to the War Diary theme of my blog, the Ukrainian Army, plentifully supplied with weapons primarily by the USA (despite rhetoric from the U.K. and Europe) have inflicted major defeats on Putin’s invading force.  The Russian Army has been in retreat, and it now looks possible that Ukraine may recapture lands in Crimea that Putin annexed in 2014.  In the last day or so, there has been an explosion on both the road and rail bridges which link Russia with Crimea, a Putin vanity project.  There are rumours that Putin may consider the use of nuclear weapons in the Ukraine, indeed he has hinted as much. 

Other awful happenings include huge floods in Southern Pakistan, killing thousands; major hurricanes and typhoons in Florida and the Philippines; multiple deaths due to a stampede at a football match in Indonesia; mass shootings in the USA, and a mass murder of children in Thailand by a disaffected police officer.  What Putin may fail to achieve, perhaps the sequelae of climate change will.

The disadvantage of leaving a diary for a long time is that events such as the sacking of a Prime Minister and the election (if one can call it that) of a successor have not been recorded.  Boris Johnson made one error of judgment too many, and had to go.  The appointment of a new leader is decided first of all by votes among Conservative MPs and subsequently by official paid-up Conservative party members.  Liz Truss is the appointee.  As in Catch-22, the fact that anyone wants to grasp the poisoned chalice of Tory leadership is surely an automatic disqualification of their validity to hold the office.  Already, Trussonomics has had to U-turn on tax reductions, there are widespread strikes, and our energy policy – or lack of it – may lead to power blackouts this winter.  The last such blackouts took place when I was a student – in 1971 as I recall.

‘A week is a long time in politics’.  A remark usually attributed to Harold Wilson circa 1964.  One is tempted to observe ‘A day is a long time in politics’.  The coming and going of various ministers, some discredited, some being forced to resign, and now Prime Ministers (Liz Truss is no more – Rishi Sunak has grabbed the chalice, narrowly avoiding a Boris Johnson resurgence as the tubby ex-PM made a dash back from a holiday no-one knew he had taken in the Dominican Republic, only to find that no-one wanted him any more).  Before this, Kwasi Kwarteng, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, had to resign after the catastrophic budget he and Truss created with slashed taxes and an economic black hole.  Kwarteng had been overseas, in New York, before being summoned back.  A joke doing the rounds stated that he had found difficulty getting on the BA flight back to London because no-one wanted him anywhere near Business or Economy.  Kwarteng’s resignation did not save Liz Truss, who was forced to resign in short order thereafter.  Jeremy Hunt, a previous relatively undistinguished incumbent of the health ministry, is the new Chancellor.

Matt Cartoon, Daily Telegraph


Politics always delivers, at least if you are a political commentator or analyst.  And they have been overwhelmingly busy.  Gavin Williamson, an inexplicably knighted Tory MP, who had been an extremely poor minister for education, was given a Cabinet post by Rishi Sunak – Minister without Portfolio.  In post for 14 days, he has resigned after unpleasantly hectoring and bullying texts sent to the Chief Whip.  It seems that he threw his toys out of the pram after not being invited to the Queen’s funeral.


Another figure of fun from the past, Matt Hancock MP, has signed up for ‘I’m a Celebrity, Get Me Out of Here’, in the Australian jungle.  Far from celebrating the fact that he at least cannot do any harm in politics from a remote spot in Queensland, his constituency in West Suffolk are upset and have suggested he consider resigning from parliament.  Many are looking forward to the trials Hancock is likely to suffer on the programme, such as having to eat kangaroo testicles.  It is unclear whether his wife or his mistress is pleased/displeased that Hancock has left the UK.


 

Branksome Chine, 3rd October

Poole Harbour, 18th October



Our summer weather came to an abrupt close, but October was still an unusually record breaking warm month.  Storms and rain have supervened.

And the war in Ukraine continues.  The Ukrainian forces have achieved remarkable victories over the Russians – but they are critically dependant on hardware and expertise from the West.  The USA have been doing a good job in supplying them, infuriating Putin, who sees this as a proxy war by the West against Russia.  Today’s paper suggests that the EU is lagging behind in financial support.  Putin’s latest tactic is missile strikes to destroy infrastructure – knocking out power stations and electricity supplies.  He is also buying weapons from Iran…


The circus which is the major climate change conference – now COP 27 – is taking place in Egypt.  Rishi Sunak initially announced that he was too busy at home, but vacillated, and did attend.  He made vague noises about reparations by rich nations for the adverse effects of climate change in small nations – seemingly the most popular issue in this talking shop which generates much hot air (and CO2).  Even Greta Thunberg is not attending this one.  Neither are Russia, China, and India – three of the world’s worst offenders in pollution and generation of climate change.


An interesting fact has emerged about the increase in global atmospheric CO2.  A study by Ohio State University has shown that many trees have responded to the increased concentration of the gas (which is a substrate for the building blocks of plant life) by enlarging, and ‘fixing’ more CO2 than before.  Can there be some positive effects of carbon dioxide increase one wonders?


Another fascinating little fact – unrelated to climate change, but relevant nonetheless to our current economic disasters, has been uncovered by the US Department of Homeland Security.  An unusual pattern in the export and import of medical supplies – particularly those related to Personal Protection Equipment (PPE) – by China was detected in the months before the world became aware of Covid 19.  A reduction in exports, and amassing of materials useful to the creation of protective clothing, without any obvious reason, suggests that China was aware of the virus and its pandemic potential.  Yet again, this fuels the speculation that the virus may have had a laboratory origin.


There is nothing like a touch of cancer to make one philosophical.  I have friends who are going through the unpleasantness of treatment for metastatic cancer.  I freely admit that I am in no way comparable – despite the complications suffered after radical resection for carcinoma of the prostate, and an involved lymph node, the worst I can look forward to at the moment is the possibility of some pelvic radiotherapy.  And a regular subscription to Tena incontinence products.  The gloomiest thing about this is that the first delivery of the pads comes with some elastic net supports (one might call them netty-knickers).  Inside, printed on each one is ‘Name’ and ‘Room’.  In other words, an institution cannot be too far away.  All of the above does make one begin to think of oneself as a very insignificant conglomeration of molecules sub specie aeternitatis.  In other words, we are on the downward spiral of entropy, and our importance in the world is greatly exaggerated – not least by ourselves.  The birth of my grandson (now called Arlo), at least gives some feeling of permanence.  The mixing, and copying of some strands of DNA, allows one to dream of immortality.  Wordsworth probably summed up the poignancy of man’s situation (sorry about the “man’s” but it is easier to write and at least you know what I mean – all genders included) in his poem ‘Intimations of Immortality’.  He would probably have been fascinated to learn about DNA.

And my daughter, when I said, ‘Arlo.  Great name.  As in Arlo Guthrie’, said ‘Who?’

Consider sub specie aeternitatis again.  A phrase coined by the philosopher Spinoza.  For a detailed discussion of the topic see:

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10790-021-09839-5

More simply, Amor Towles, author, writes this in ‘The Lincoln Highway’, towards the end of the novel, in a chapter entitled ‘Abacus’:

“Many years before, Abacus had come to the conclusion that the greatest of heroic stories have the shape of diamond on its side.  Beginning at a fine point, the life of the hero expands outward through youth as he begins to establish his strengths and fallibilities, his friendships and enmities.  Proceeding into the world, he pursues exploits in grand company, accumulating honors and accolades.  But at some untold moment, the rays that define the outer limits of this widening world of hale companions and worthy adventures simultaneously turn a corner and begin to converge.  The terrain our hero travels, the cast of characters he meets, the sense of purpose that has long propelled him forward all begin to narrow – to narrow toward that fixed and inexorable point that defines his fate.”  Abacus now realises that it isn’t simply the lives of the renowned that conform to this geometry.  It is “All lives.”


We have had a five-day trip to Yorkshire, to watch Bournemouth play Leeds in the Premier League.  Apart from the excitement of the game, which Bournemouth lost 4-3 after leading 3-1, the best day was Friday, when in bright sunshine we explored the Yorkshire Sculpture Park, near Wakefield.  Modern sculpture often leaves me poised midway between laughter and admiration.

Yorkshire Sculpture Park, work by Tom Price.  November 4th

'Love' by Robert Indiana

Another statue - paying homage to the late great Don Revie



And last month we had a long planned five-day visit to Istanbul.  Exciting, but thronged with tourists in a way that surely can only be matched by Venice in season.

Agia Sophia Mosque at night


An elegant mosque beside the Bosphorus


The Topkapi Palace dagger - the emeralds are the size of a quail's egg


The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet)


The colours of Turkish Delight, Spice Market, Istanbul



And at the end of this week (November 20th), the World Cup of football starts in Qatar.

November 24th, 2022

We have had seemingly endless rain.  One bright windless Saturday, we ventured into the sea for a swim.  It was brief.  The water temperature has dropped to 14 degrees.  On my walks along the promenade I often see swimmers changing after braving the water.  Uncharitably I note that they often have better insulation than I do.

There is a virtually uninterrupted diet of football.  There is much discussion about the absurdities of holding the tournament in Qatar, not least because of their human rights record and the fact that homosexuality is a crime, let alone their treatment of women in Qatari society.  Other anomalies, not to say shocks, are the loss of Germany to Japan and Argentina to KSA (Kingdom of Saudi Arabia).

We are approaching the depths of winter and of course, Christmas.  There has been no real frost and almost all the leaves remain on our oak tree.  A friend posts beautiful pictures of the light show at Salisbury Cathedral.

An article, of which more next time, by Louise Willder, is a plug for her book, ‘Blurb Your Enthusiasm’.  She is a professional blurb writer, and has created those pithy little additions to the covers of thousands of books which make you buy them.  As she says, it is rare that one could just describe the plot in bald statements such as this TV listing: ‘Transported to a surreal landscape, a young girl kills the first person she meets and then teams up with three strangers to kill again.’  (The Wizard of Oz).

She admits that other such writers can make her buy books as well.  She once bought ‘A Gathering Light’ by Jennifer Donnelly because the quote on the front said, “If George Clooney had walked into the room I would have told him to come back later when I’d finished.”  And she was glad she did.

Sunday November 27th, 2022.

I finish this update on a grey, rainy day.  Walking along the promenade towards Canford Cliffs, the Class 1 racing yachts are limply progressing towards a racing mark on a much calmer morning than we have seen recently.  Passing the small Tesco store near Shore Road, Paul McCartney and Wings are simply having a wonderful Christmas time.  Oh dear.  I leave you with some more images from work colleague Stephanie Welch:


The seasonal light show, Salisbury Cathedral
Copyright Stephanie Welch


The seasonal light show, interior, Salisbury Cathedral
Copyright Stephanie Welch


Au revoir.



Friday, September 23, 2022

The Evening Hill Diaries - 1st May 2022 to September 2022

My first grandson has been born within a few minutes or at the most hours of the death of Queen Elizabeth the Second (on September 8th).  He is now a Carolingian rather than an Elizabethan.  It seems very strange to be singing God Save the King, but we will get used to it.

The late Spring and early Summer both passed with wonderful weather, and a new record high temperature in the UK of over 40 degrees C, somewhere in Lincolnshire.  A drought was officially declared in many places, particularly the South of England.  The grave and the trivial have existed side by side.  How else can one write in one catch-up diary entry of the death of a monarch who has steadfastly been the rock at the centre of our Nation’s life, and a petulant lawsuit between two footballer’s wives?  If this diary were unfolding sequentially, such matters might perhaps be excusable (HMQ died in the afternoon of September 8th), but most gossip becomes somehow irrelevant now.

What I will say is that there is an enormous contrast between many of the utterances of Prince Charles (as he was) and King Charles III (as he now is).  The sincerity, the gravitas, the perfect phrasing, the lack of those characteristics so ably imitated by Rory Bremner and other mimics, seem to mark out a new era in Charles’s communications with our nation.

‘Presume not that I am the thing I was; For God doth know, so shall the world perceive, That I have turned away my former self; So will I those that kept me company.’ (Henry IV part 2)

I will try to catch up with some of the highlights between these dates above.

May 2, 2022

Woken at first light by helicopters overhead.  They are searching for a missing person.  A post-sailing regatta party resulted in some lads taking a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) for a spin in the middle of the night, and rumour has it they hit a cardinal mark in the harbour at high speed.  Some days later a body is found.

Fine and increasingly hot weather brings a drought to the southern part of the UK.

We first become aware of the rising temperatures on our first overseas holiday for two and a half years.  Alighting from the Poole – Cherbourg ferry on May 15th, temperature much as in the UK – a comfortable 20 degrees, but suddenly, stopping just outside Le Mans, it is 29 degrees.  The Brittany Ferries brochure is full of advertisements for alcohol but in the interstices are some articles to encourage visits to this part of France.  Le Mans, for instance, is praised for its ‘competitive spirit’ but is worth visiting as the birthplace of the most famous of the Plantagenet Kings, Henry II.  The guide also attempts to tantalise with recipes such as ‘Far Breton’ – with ingredients such as brandy, sugar, prunes, raisins, milk, eggs, flour, and butter, there surely isn’t much that could go wrong with this?

Our first stop is the Loire and the riverside town of Langeais, a little west of Tours.  The cycling here is largely level, apart from the challenging cliffs above the town of Chinon, high above the Vienne, a tributary of the Loire.  High temperatures and cycling mean rehydration with cold (Belgian) beer.  Chinon is famous for its literary son, François Rabelais, the French renaissance writer, as well as associations with Joan of Arc, and the birthplace of Richard the Lionheart.


The fortress of Chinon


Fine food in Langeais


Au Coin des Halles

The Chateau, Langeais

A meeting with Rabelais

Rehydration in Avoine


Moving further south, we have a night of luxury in a restored farmhouse in Perigord, before visiting family in MonsĂ©gur, near the Dordogne.  By this time the temperatures are in the high 30s and cycling is only possible in the shade of trees by the river path.  A visit to Bergerac brings one face to face, or perhaps nose to nose with the eponymous Cyrano.

A secret corner of Perigord

Nose to nose with Cyrano

38 degrees in Bergerac


A three-year absence of trips to France reminds us powerfully how much we love so many aspects of the country.  It also reminds us of the French waiter’s stock response to a customer awaiting tardy service:  J’arrive.’  Translated as – ‘Sometime in the next hour.’

Dawdling in France


Kouign-Amman, a Breton cake, much like a croissant, but with lots of sugar mixed in.  Very welcome to cyclists


Returning home, we are determined to fit more holidays in, and within a few weeks we take a walking holiday in Umbria, visiting some of the less well known corners of the Apennine foothills, though also visiting Assisi.  My last visit to Assisi was in 1958 with my parents.  My mother bought a decorative tile with a picture of St Francis blessing the animals, and an inscription in French:

‘Que le bon Dieu/ Te regarde, te benisse/Et tourne son visage vers toi.’

It hung in our kitchen for many years.  But the religious memorabilia available now seems trite and trashy, and is probably made in China, much like Donald Trump’s ‘Make America Great Again’ baseball caps.


And a further trip to Italy to play a 4-year delayed social golfing event against European and U.S. cardiologists is fitted in before returning to ‘face the music’, so to speak, for a Robotic Assisted Radical Prostatectomy on 29th June.

These holidays serve to take the prospect of forthcoming cancer surgery out of one’s thoughts.  The few days after returning home remind me of Brutus in ‘Julius Caesar’, and the abhorrence of delay between thought and action:  ‘Between the acting of a dreadful thing /And the first motion, all the interim is /Like a phantasma or a hideous dream. /The genius and the mortal instruments /Are then in council, and the state of man, /Like to a little kingdom, suffers then /The nature of an insurrection.’

Recovery is delayed and complicated, but somewhat alleviated by some wonderful sport on TV.  Wimbledon, Test Match cricket, and especially the Tour de France.  One of the best and most exciting Tours of recent memory, commencing with hugely enthusiastic Danish crowds lauding one of their own, Magnus Cort, as he gained the ‘King of the Mountains’ title during the first three days parcours.  (There are no mountains in Denmark, I hear you say).  Over the succeeding three weeks, a magnificent duel between the two clear strongest competitors evolves.  Eventually Le Tour is won by Jonas Vingegaard (Denmark), from Tadej PogaÄŤar (Slovenia).

A remarkable sporting gesture happened near the end of the race.  PogaÄŤar, desperate to gain time on Vingegaard, took a descending corner too wide, slid on gravel and ended up in the ditch.  At first Vingegaard stormed ahead, but realising that his arch-competitor had experienced some bad luck, slowed until PogaÄŤar righted himself and caught up.  A touch of hands in a high-speed handshake acknowledged the debt owed by PogaÄŤar, and the sporting rivalry continued.

One of the greatest ever sporting gestures, akin to Jack Nicklaus giving Tony Jacklin that putt in the 1969 Ryder Cup (acknowledgements to whoever posterised the still from the race


Sadly, other events continued as before.  The war in Ukraine continued.  As I write, late in September, there has been a remarkable turnaround, with Putin’s forces in retreat; many of his most formidable weapons trumped by modern technology – portable anti-tank launchers, for example.  In May, there was yet another mass shooting in the USA – in a Texas school – 19 deaths.  A friend died from an unpleasant form of facial cancer.  A great outdoorsman, his funeral was a wonderful celebration of his love of sailing, walking, climbing, and cycling.  The final touch?  ‘The Manchester Rambler’ by Ewan MacColl.

On 12th August, another U.S. based incident.  Salman Rushdie, for many years under a Fatwa from Iran due to his authorship of ‘The Satanic Verses’, which it seems that the Ayatollah failed to read before condemning it, is attacked in Chautauqua, New York, while giving a lecture.  Despite multiple stab wounds, Rushdie is fortunate to survive.  The Fatwa situation is a Catch-22 one: the only person who can rescind the issuance of this is the person who originally invoked it.  Unfortunately, Ayatollah Khomeini cannot do this – he is dead.

But all other news, gossip, or opinion fades before the passing of Queen Elizabeth II.  The national response of mourning, tributes, and ceremony is remarkable.  Huge queues of citizens, first in Edinburgh’s St Giles cathedral, and now in Westminster Hall, to walk past the coffin, indicate the depth of love and respect that we have for the monarch, who dedicated over 70 years of her life to the duties of a Queen.

The period of mourning that we are now in is enlivened by some examples of Her Majesty’s humour: an interview with the artist who painted the last official portrait for example.  The Queen asked him who his favourite portrait artists were.  ‘Oh, Gainsborough and Reynolds,’ came the reply.  ‘I think,’ replied Her Majesty, ‘We have a few of those downstairs.’

The BBC has done a remarkable job during the period leading up to the funeral.  Interviews with virtually anybody who ever met the Queen can pall, however.  I was intrigued by an interview with John Kerry, the Presidential envoy for Climate.  He spoke of his remembrance of the Queen being ‘coronated’.  I was tempted to assume that he couldn’t speak the Queen’s English, and should have used the more usual ‘crowned’, or spoken of the ‘coronation.’  Of course it was an American who said that ‘There is no noun that cannot be verbed.’  But then I remembered that some Americans – chiefly in the remote outposts of the Appalachians, still use some of the English of 400 years ago.  Indeed, ‘coronated’ has been extant since 1623.  Mountain folk use antiquated words like ‘britches, (breeches, trousers); ‘poke’ (bag); and ‘settle’ for ‘sofa’, and will ask you to ‘set that down’ rather than ‘put that down.’

Letters to the papers are poignant, and interesting.  One elderly man who was present as a child as the Queen’s Coronation Coach drove along the Mall in 1953, remarked what a sad sign of the times it was that then the policemen were all facing the coach – now they are all facing the crowd. 

The Queen’s funeral was a magnificent affair.  A solemn and reverential ceremony in Westminster Abbey, followed by a march to the Wellington Arch near Buckingham Palace, transferring by hearse to Windsor Castle for a more intimate ceremony in St George’s Chapel.  At the point where the military parade reached the palace the commentator observed that the procession (the coffin borne on a gun carriage) was now one and a quarter miles long.  History was made at every step.  The last Royal funeral held in Westminster Abbey was that of George II in 1760.  Some of the music has been sung at such events for several hundred years.  But it seems that it is impossible to please everyone.  Sir James MacMillan (a Scot), who composed a choral piece entitled ‘Who Shall Separate Us’, has received hate mail and complaints from Scottish Nationalists who saw in the work a subliminal message in favour of the Union between our countries.  As Sir James explains, the title refers to a passage from the Bible which was a favourite of the late Queen, “Who shall separate us from the love of Christ?”

And immediately following the obsequies, the railway workers have announced a recurrence of their strike action (for more pay), threatening the London Marathon, and creating travel misery for thousands.  Another letter in the papers reads thus:

‘Frances O’Grady, the general secretary of the Trades Union Congress claims that the right to strike is a fundamental British liberty.

Not so: it is an innovation arising out of legislation in 1871.  Then, working conditions were utterly different: employers held a whip hand over their workers.  In current conditions, it seems wrong that one group should aim, without penalty, to better itself by imposing hardship on others.’

Agreed.

I am sure that so many of us were taken aback by the suddenness of the Queen’s last illness.  Only two days before she had welcomed Boris Johnson who attended at Balmoral to resign as Prime Minister, and a short time later, Liz Truss, who attended to be asked to become Prime Minister.  Photographs of her show her smiling, looking frail, but still in full control.  You may wonder why I did not mention the Prime Ministerial race before?  Do not fret.  ‘It is a tale.  Told by an idiot.  Full of sound and fury.  Signifying nothing.’

More Shakespeare.  He has been much in vogue in the last weeks.  King Charles quoted from the final scene of Hamlet about his mother; ‘Flights of angels sing thee to thy rest.’  I seem to recall that it was originally ‘hymn thee to thy rest’, but I can’t find it anywhere.  Perhaps it was in the First Quarto?

An article by Dominic Cavendish in the Telegraph (September 17) is entitled ‘Why We Find Solace in Shakespeare’, and mentions another bon mot from Charles, who quotes Shakespeare’s Henry VIII; the blessing of Elizabeth I.  Cranmer saying, ‘She shall be… a pattern to all princes.’  I commend the article.

Some counterpoise to recent events is given by the TV series, ‘The Crown’, and we are not caught up with the most recent episodes.  We have moved through the late 70s, and are now in the 80s, with the excruciating goings-on in the Charles/Diana/Camilla triangle (or pentagon if you choose to include Princess Anne and Andrew Parker Bowles).  It is a salutary reminder that none of us is perfect, but may explain why some of my era have a certain ambivalence about the transfer of the monarchy, which does not extend to full-blooded Republicanism, but may we remain aloof, awhile? 

Let us hope.  Back, almost, where I began:

‘Presume not that I am the thing I was; For God doth know, so shall the world perceive, That I have turned away my former self; So will I those that kept me company.’ (Henry IV part 2)

So long Falstaff…

 

The ER insignia at the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden.  Blacked out at the performance of Don Giovanni on September 13th




Tuesday, July 12, 2022

Un Coup de Nostalgie - Saranac Lake, New York, USA, in the Summer of 1970

 

No more about the war or politics for the time being...


Saranac Lake, Summer 1970       

 

Sometime in early 1970, I was working on my research project in Pharmacology during my final year at Cambridge, in the rather drab old laboratories, up above the physiology department on the Downing Street site.  I was trying to establish whether a new drug called cinanserin was an antagonist of 5-hydroxytryptamine (serotonin).  This involved delicate assessment of contractions of guinea-pig ileum, and required much time between exposures of drug and antagonist.  Mooching about between experiments I passed the office of Dr Alan Cuthbert.  He told me that he had just heard from a colleague in the USA who was inviting students to work with him and other scientists during a sabbatical in upstate New York.  The clincher was, ‘I think they pay you quite well’.  Being virtually penniless, the prospect of $500 for two months’ work seemed like a golden opportunity.  Further enquiry revealed that we were expected to be laboratory workers for U.S. and Canadian senior scientists who had been invited by a charity called the Will Rogers foundation to spend the summer doing research and teaching in a hospital founded by the National Vaudeville Artists in Saranac Lake, New York state.

 

The small matter of getting there was solved with help from my parents.  The prohibitive costs of flying in those days were circumvented only by charter flights, and to book on a charter flight required you to be in a ‘club’.  The British Universities North America Club (BUNAC) charged a minimal joining fee, and the return fare was £58 (approximately £750 in 2022), which included a night in a shared room in a hotel in Manhattan.  A trip to London was required for a U.S. visa in one’s passport – a long queue outside the U.S. Embassy in Grosvenor Square.  My mother insisted that the only suitcase of any worth was a Globetrotter, and I bought one in a cut-price shop in Praed Street, just opposite St Mary’s Hospital.

 

Eventually, missing out on my Cambridge graduation, I turned up at Heathrow airport and embarked on a World Airways chartered Boeing 707 for New York, together with 180 other university students, clutching a few dollars and some American Express traveller’s cheques.  The flight attendants were sleek and attractive.  One wag thought he was doing quite well with one called Cindy.  ‘Would you like to meet for a date tonight’?  He enquired.  ‘Sure’, she said, ‘If you can meet me in San Francisco’.  The drinks were free and unlimited.  Several passengers fell at the first hurdle, barely making it off the plane.

The flight to New York - see the history of the airline: 
                                             https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Airways
 


In a room with three or four others in an unattractive downtown hotel, I slept with my passport and money under my pillow, but in the morning one of the others said that all his money had been stolen.

 

Leaving the unfortunate I found my way to the Greyhound bus station and purchased a ticket for Saranac Lake, NY, anticipated to be a journey of around eight hours or so.  Boarding the bus, I noted its number was 1203, the same as the ill-fated flight that the Everly Brothers’ fiancĂ©e had caught in the death classic, ‘Ebony Eyes’.  But the bus rumbled uneventfully north, with stops in Albany and Saratoga Springs (memorised for ‘O’ level history as a location for a battle in what Americans call ‘The Revolutionary War’).

A Greyhound bus of the same era - standing next to Ho Jo's!


As we approached the Adirondack Mountains, rolling forests and fewer towns, the driver (called confusingly in the U.S. the conductor) became somewhat more affable.  After Lake Placid, he told me that he could drop me right outside the Will Rogers Hospital, which itself is situated a little south of the small town of Saranac Lake, NY, Zip Code 12983.  Walking up the drive, hefting the unduly heavy ‘Globetrotter’, I found myself in between a small community of apartment blocks and a hospital, built in the 1920s as a Tudor revival style building, and somehow, was welcomed and allocated an apartment which seemed like a luxury suite, amid the pine trees and unbroken countryside to the east.

 

Aerial view of the Will Rogers Memorial Hospital.  My apartment was in the building top right.

Our prospectus on arrival



All meals were paid for, and the following morning I queued in the hospital canteen for breakfast.

 

We were a mixed group of students, mostly from medical schools in New York and Boston, and students in both sciences and medicine from the UK.  The mentors were as follows:

Alvin Zipursky, a paediatric haematologist from McMaster University, Canada

Bob Silber, a charismatic New York based haematologist.

Lowell Greenbaum, a pharmacologist from Athens, Georgia.

Norman Krasnow, a cardiologist from New York.

Stanley Wallach, an endocrinologist.

Art Karmen, a chemical pathologist (famous for being the originator of assays for liver transaminases which for some years were quoted in Karmen units, but ultimately superseded by International Units).

 

There were some local physicians, Dr Blide, a pulmonologist (reflecting the reason for the hospital’s origin), and a senior physician, Dr Ayvazian, an escapee as a child from the Armenian genocide, who had written crime novels under the name Fred Levon.  The single on-site researcher was a pathologist, who, curiously, was researching something to do with silicon.

 

I was assigned to Dr Zipursky’s lab, together with a local boy, David Meyer, then currently studying at University of Vermont, and hoping to go to medical school.

 

There were three unmarried male U.S. students, Bill Handelman (Downstate), Al Weiss (Columbia), and another called Marty, also from Downstate.  A single female was Evlin McKinney, also a clinical student at Columbia, and a devoted Women’s Lib adherent.  Her favourite author was Kate Millet.  She delighted in confronting male prejudices.  Once, so Al told me, she had been directed to assist in surgery.  The female changing room was exclusively for the nurses.  She chose to enter the (all male) surgeons’ changing room where she calmly took off all her clothes in front of the astonished surgeons and anaesthetists and donned her scrubs.  The married couples were Jack and Laurie, and Joe and Margo – from Boston.  The latter were interesting and unusual (at least to me) in that Joe seemed very laid back and intelligent, and Margo came across as a sort of loud ‘wired’ person, with high vitality, and looked a bit like Liza Minelli’s character in Cabaret.  They also kept their ‘grass’ in a large storage jar in their kitchen, together with jars of all of their other less vital ingredients – flour, sugar, salt, etc.

 

The person who organised us all, acted as secretary, and made everything happen in the Will Rogers Institute (as the research lab was called) was a lovely lady called Audrey Lumpkin, a former smoker with COPD, and lacking one lung due to TB.  She was a recipient in fact, of the largesse of the entertainment industry, who financed the Will Rogers Hospital, and provided free treatment to anyone working in movies or theatre who suffered from any lung diseases.  During my stay there, she took me under her wing.  I spent several evenings chatting to her in her apartment on campus.  She enquired once if I had ever been to a Drive-In cinema.  Of course I never had.  We went together to watch ‘The Lion in Winter’, which starred Peter O’Toole and Katharine Hepburn (Audrey’s favourite actress).  This was before Drive-Ins descended to the role of being the main vehicle for Triple X movies.


Here we are - though some may find it difficult to recognise me - with hair - back left next to Dr Zipursky and Dr Lowell Greenbaum.  Drs Norman Krasnow and Robert Silber front right


 

Saranac Lake itself, as an upstate vacation resort, had come into prominence as a centre for the treatment of tuberculosis, and there were a number of cottages or dormitories on the other side of the lake.  Robert Louis Stevenson, on his fruitless wanderings to alleviate his TB, had come there in the winter of 1887-8.  Subsequent guests, for relaxation, included Charles Ives and Mark Twain.

 

Zip, as we were very quickly instructed to call him, was a senior investigator, paediatrician, and researcher in various blood diseases.  Although I did not know at the time he had been instrumental in masterminding Canada’s approach to the prevention of Rhesus Haemolytic Disease of the newborn.  Now he was working on immunological aspects of haemolysis, and he had brought his forceful and energetic lab technician, Betty Brown, with him.  Under Betty’s guidance, we learned how to take blood from one another, centrifuge and isolate monocytes from blood plasma, and look at their interaction with antibody primed red blood cells.

 

The small campus of the hospital was attractive and surrounded by pine trees.  A beautiful new building housed the library.  In those pre-internet days, all Scientific Research was catalogued in a set of enormous volumes called Index Medicus.  A number of key journals were also held here.  Any scientific paper could be obtained for us by the helpful library assistant, Katie Easter, a recent high school graduate who hoped to go to college sometime in the next year.  Visiting lecturers arrived once a week, courtesy of the Will Rogers fund.  The whole atmosphere was relaxed and happy.

The newly built library, Will Rogers Memorial Hospital, Saranac Lake


 

We quickly learned that the great American outdoors was a fun place to be.  The Adirondacks were almost at the end of their tenure as the great vacation destination for the northeastern USA.  Aviation and widespread air conditioning had made it easier for Americans to go further south during the summer.  A little further south of Saranac was also the so-called ‘Borscht Belt’, in the Catskill mountains, of Jewish residential hotels where entertainers such as Jackie Mason and Woody Allen forged their careers.

 

Soon after my arrival, David Meyer invited me to go water-skiing.  He took with him a local friend, Chip Gallagher, a laid-back long haired individual who turned out to be a skiing ace.  Within a trip or two they had me confidently skiing on two skis, and then dropping one to monoski.  It seemed like American paradise.  On my first evening, just as I had got the hang of crossing the wake, as we zoomed through a narrow gap between the lake shores, they motioned me frantically over to the shore side of the boat.  I had no idea why this was until a little seaplane came cruising past us, kissing the surface of the lake just ahead of the boat.  It was another world to simple old Britain.

 

Evenings were often accompanied by invitations to join our mentors at their accommodation, some lovely lodges beside the lake, where we played tennis and swam.  On the first occasion, Freda, Zip’s wife, said, ‘It will be simple, I’ve just made a tray of lasagne’.  It seems hard to believe that I had never heard of lasagne.

 

I don’t think any of us made any research breakthroughs during the summer, but we bonded, learned a lot about the hard graft of research, and were exposed to some real high-fliers in the world of medical research.

 

Later in the summer, knowing of my interest in sailing, Katie Easter invited me to her family’s ‘camp’ – their summer home on the St Regis lakes.  The only way to get there was by boat.  I was to help her family crew on a superb traditional sailing yacht, an ‘Idem’, in their local races.  The Idem (from Latin ‘the same’), has some claims to being the first ever one-design yacht, certainly in the USA.  It was designed in 1899, specifically for shallow lake sailing.  An exquisite traditional looking gaff-rigged boat, with a large sail area and an enormously heavy (600lbs) steel drop keel.  This was an effort to get up and down, and racing rules stated that it should be left in the down position for racing, only being pulled up if the yacht went aground.  Some of the elegance of this yacht stemmed from its 32-foot length overall, but a 19ft waterline.  It was completely unsuitable for heavy seas, but ideal for the lakes of northern New York state.  We also sailed a Sunfish, and did some more water skiing, this time behind one of those American classics, which used a motor industry inboard V8 engine of enormous capacity and speed.  I felt hugely privileged to be a part of this, and a recipient of what is fairly standard in America – genuine and generous hospitality.  On one occasion that weekend, a smart traditional motor launch was seen crossing the lake in front of us.  ‘That’s Mrs Post’ announced Katie.  ‘Mrs Who’?  ‘Haven’t you heard of Post Toasties’?  She enquired.  I hadn’t.  The Posts were one of the richest families in America, and clung to their traditional holiday venues, a little like the Kennedys on Cape Cod.

 

Summer mornings as we walked across to the hospital labs were memorable for the heat of the sun on the pines and the wonderful smell of pine resin in the air.  It was hard to believe, as the locals assured us, that winter would bring huge amounts of snow and temperatures of minus 40.  No wonder David Meyer was on the University of Vermont ski team.

 

The only uncomfortable note came in the run-up to July 4th, and its consequences.  I had become friends with one of the hospital cooks, named Stuart, and had enjoyed dinner at his apartment, which he shared with his attractive bronzed Californian wife.  He had various friends who were somewhat hippyish and counterculture.  One, named John, drove around in a psychedelic looking VW van, adorned with the usual mind-expanding motifs from the pop albums of the later 1960s.  One evening, en route to a town bar with several of the other students in the van, after John had honked his horn for no other reason than joie de vivre (and probably some cannabis), the police pulled us over.  To me this was terrifying; after all, these guys carried guns.  To the others it was standard.  As the cops wrenched open the back doors of the van, we tumbled out to be ordered to stand with our hands on the roof.  ‘Where you from buddy’? enquired the cop.  ‘Cambridge, … England’, I added firmly.  My neighbour answered, ‘Glasgow, Scotland.’  ‘Hey Cal’, said the cop, ‘We got the Yoo-nited Nations here’.  Eventually we were allowed to carry on.  ‘Lay off the horn, buddy’, was the final advice.

 

It was definitely ‘them and us’.  The staid and conservative, and no doubt Republican citizens of Saranac Lake, had a mission to ‘run the long hairs out of town’.  But evenings in the local bars were fun.  There was beer, there was music, there was dancing.  I remember one of our long-haired friends dancing ecstatically in a downtown bar to the song from ‘Hair’ – ‘Aquarius; Let the Sunshine in’, as though the Promised Land was about to descend through the amplifiers.  There was a real sense of rebellion and revolution – the youth of America did not want to go to Vietnam, and didn’t agree with how the country was being run.  Paradoxically, three years later, President Richard Nixon would signal the end of U.S. involvement in Vietnam, but this was July 1970, shortly after National Guardsmen had ended a student demonstration at Kent State University with live ammunition and fatalities of four unarmed students only two months earlier.  Woodstock had taken place the previous year.  The film of the time was ‘Easy Rider’, starring Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper.  M*A*S*H, an anti-establishment film about the Korean war was popular, grittier and less saccharine than the subsequent TV series.  ‘How did someone like that get into the Army?’ Was a line.  ‘He was drafted, Sir.’  Was the reply.  Many students had already left the country for Canada to avoid being drafted into the U.S. military.  Medical students stayed on – Bill Handelman told me that it was politically unwise, even for the Republican party, to draft doctors or medical students.

 

Handelman was both entertaining and witty, as well as cultured.  His accent was the archetype of the English impression of someone from Brooklyn.  He tried to explain to me the subtleties of the U.S. press.  ‘The Daily News, Andy’, he opined, is like your Sun or your Daily Mirror.  For example, consider the day when World War III is declared.  The Daily News headlines might run: 1.  Mets win.  2.  Jackie in New York.  3.  World War Three declared’.  I kept in touch with him, and shortly after I had started back at medical school in London, he came to St Thomas’s Hospital for his final year elective.  We met one evening to go to a Prom concert.  ‘Andy’, he asked me, in semi-serious tones; ‘Do you have to have a double-barrelled name to go to St Thomas’s’?  He insisted we both attend the Prom at which the Shostakovich 10th symphony would be played.  My knowledge of Shostakovich was limited to the fifth symphony, to which a friend of Cambridge had introduced me.  ‘You have to hear the scherzo of the 10th, Andy’, stated Bill.  ‘It’s fantastic.  It’s triple forte throughout’.  And it was.

 

Back in Saranac Lake in 1970, the summer ended tragically for both Stuart and John.  In a melĂ©e downtown on July 4th, which most of us had the good sense to leave early, a group of Hells Angels rode into town, parking their expensive machines outside the bars on Main Street.  Stuart, more than tipsy, unwisely threw a beer bottle at the mob.  It hit one of the precious and immaculate Harley-Davidsons, scratching the paintwork.  All hell (without any angels) broke loose.  ‘Who threw that bottle?’ shouted the cop who arrived on the scene.  I was later to hear the same cop in court testify that he had actually seen Stuart throw the bottle.  During the court hearing which I attended, the judge, a severe looking man called Karl J (Run the Long Hairs Out of Town) Greibsch, suddenly shouted, ‘Take off that cap’.  John had been sitting in the public gallery in his fishing cap.  At first he didn’t realise that this was directed at him.  When the judge shouted even louder, he defiantly sat there, cap on head.  ‘Arrest that man’ shouted Greibsch.  Two burly cops charged across the courtroom, and dragged John by his plaid donkey jacket across the courtroom floor.  ‘Take him down’ ordered Greibsch.  Almost immediately he announced a recess, during which he descended to the cells and summarily sentenced John to two weeks in jail for contempt of court.  Stuart got four weeks’ jail, and that seemed to be the end of the summer…


The Saranac Lake newspaper covered it in detail - probably the most exciting thing to happen in the town for months, if not years

Zip was upset.  He too had taken to the friendly hospital cook.  ‘Do you guys realise what that means to your future employment prospects in this country?  He enquired of us.  ‘It’s a disaster’.

 

At the end of my eventful two months it was time to validate my $99 one-month unlimited Greyhound ticket.  Zip kindly invited me back to Canada with him and his family, and we drove north, and circuited the north side of Lake Ontario to his home in Hamilton.  During my brief stay with him, we visited the Stratford Festival (seeing Cymbeline), and the lively city of Toronto.  It was the start of a long friendship with the Zipurskys, which saw me back at McMaster to work during student electives and later after graduation as a doctor.  Finally, after being dropped at the Trailways bus station in Hamilton, I caught the coach to Toronto, and began the long journey out west to Vancouver.