Friday, July 3, 2026

The Evening Hill Diaries - Volume 20 - from Easter into the heat of summer and beyond

 

The Evening Hill Diaries.


11th April 2026.  At the RAF club, London.  I always walk along the corridor to the north end of the building to look at the Battle of Britain stained-glass window.



A new and beautiful window commemorates the women of the air services – the WAAF (Women’s Auxiliary Air Force), the ATA (Air Transport Auxiliary), and the WRAF (Women’s Royal Air Force).  Several members of these services won the George Cross or the George Medal, which is also displayed here.


My father-in-law's squadron was 225.  All of the squadron badges are displayed on the walls of the first floor.  This is possibly the most well known.  Can you identify it?



The clue is in the motto.

 

It was a bright cold day in April and we were in London with the excuse that our minnows (AFC Bournemouth) were playing against the big fish – Arsenal F.C., at the Emirates stadium.  And on this occasion the minnows won.  The clocks struck thirteen…




Alex Scott scored the winning goal just in front of us


 

Buoyed by this unexpected result, I went to Covent Garden (The Royal Opera House) to see the ballet of Mayerling (music by Liszt, choreography by Kenneth MacMillan [Sir Kenneth MacMillan, see:   https://www.kennethmacmillan.com/best-friends ] ).  MacMillan has created some of the most dramatic and lasting of modern ballets – Elite Syncopations, The Rite of Spring, Romeo and Juliet, The Prince of the Pagodas (for the 20-year-old Darcy Bussell), The Song of the Earth, and Mayerling.  Born and raised in hardship, his story reads like that of Billy Elliot.  MacMillan was deservedly knighted for his services to the arts.  I have long wanted to see this ballet, knowing very little of the story, other than that the heir to the Habsburg empire, the Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria, shot himself and his 17-year-old mistress, the Baroness Mary Vetsera, in the hunting lodge of Mayerling, outside Vienna, in 1889.  The true story, and the elaborate cover up which ensued, is remarkable, and the choreography spectacular.  To paraphrase a theatrical blurb, the dancing and athleticism of Rudolf and his various inamoratas (sic) made Dirty Dancing look like a pensioners’ line dance session.  Now, I am no expert in the various ballet moves; I have difficulty knowing a plié or assemblé from a retiré, but the joy of ballet is in the physical expression of the story and the emotion, and modern choreographers such as Ashton and MacMillan achieve this without the need for the audience to know anything very technical.





In an extraordinary echo of the final funereal scenes of the ballet, MacMillan himself collapsed and died backstage during curtain calls after a revival of Mayerling at the ROH in 1992.

 

At Covent Garden, the ambience is different.  The high price of the programme, for instance, at £10.  But for this one gets what is almost a textbook, with every possible nuance about the ballet or opera being performed.  Rehearsal photographs; profiles and portraits of all 60 of the principal dancers, and photographs of the 44 named dancers of the corps de ballet.  One appreciates there is a difference, even from the back cover of the programme.  The advertisement is for ‘Van Cleef & Arpels.  Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906’.  After victory at The Emirates, I needed no encouragement to visit the very busy champagne bar.



Curtain Call

Ryoichi Hirano and Melissa Hamilton as Crown Prince Rudolf and Mary Vetsera.  The Royal Ballet now employs an 'intimacy consultant'.  You may be able to see why.

Natalia Osipova as Mary in the production I saw


 

But in a reverse of the old farmers’ almanacs, March came in like a lamb and went out like a lion.  Or at least, it was rather contrary, which sums up our weather these days.

 

I re-established contact with an old colleague, a former charge nurse at Poole Hospital, subsequently ‘modern matron’ who worked with me to establish the first coronary care unit in Poole.  He trained in West Cumbria, in a hospital environment which was in some ways near Victorian, and in others, full of eccentrics.  Sitting in a nursing office on the ward, the Senior Sister announced she needed to visit the toilet, and reaching into the filing cabinet, took out a roll of white toilet paper.  Geoffrey pointed out that there was already toilet paper in the toilet.  ‘I know’, she said, ‘but it’s pink – it gives you cystitis.’

On another occasion, a very starchy paediatrician rang the district nurse who was on the ward.  One could almost hear his hiss of disapproval down the phone as he was greeted with ‘Eh, ‘ello Luv’.

‘Nurse’, he sniffed, ‘Mrs Walburn’s child is malnourished.  Cannot you improve this?’

‘Doctor – I’ve told her and told her, time and again, how to mix feed and prepare food.’

‘Hmm, that’s not very efficient nurse.  Perhaps you’d better write it down.’

‘Right doctor.  But then I’d have to bloody teach her to read first.’

The doctor rang off.

 

Geoffrey was recently finishing his career as a senior nurse advisor at another hospital.  He was horrified one day to discover that the senior ward sister was planning to work from home the next day.  ‘Lots of paperwork to do’, was the excuse.

‘I’m sorry’ (said in gentle but firm West Cumbrian accent).  ‘That’s not good enough.  Your staff need you here, whether you are doing paperwork or not.’

There were protestations, and the ruckus was escalated to the Chief Nursing Officer, who agreed that Geoff’s suggestion was correct.

And this is the state that our nursing profession has reached.  It’s symptomatic of the malaise which afflicts the health service at every level.  Junior doctors and students walking off the wards at 5pm when there are still patients to see (they are not allowed to stay, thanks to the appalling European Working Time Directive – and now they regard it as sacrosanct); endlessly rotating consultants in charge – so there is no personal responsibility for care.  There is no apprenticeship system any more, so there is no individual responsibility for training.  A friend and former colleague of mine was recently in ITU with a critical illness.  ‘Look above the bed’, he said.  ‘There is no named consultant who is looking after me.’  I could go on…

 

 

April, 2026.  Storms of hail; walking in North Dorset; fields of yellow rape; clear chalk streams; spring blossom.





 

During a few days of Lindsay’s absence in Canada in early May, visiting relatives, I cycled around some West Sussex lanes.  Such a beautiful county.  A nightmare for drivers on twisty single-track roads.  I started at Uppark House (built 1690), a National Trust property set on the South Downs.  The next day the longer route took me through West Chiltington, where St Mary’s Church is a remarkable 12th century Grade 1 listed building.  Its interior is decorated with well-preserved 13th century wall paintings, primarily displaying the Passion of Christ.  The villages around about, and the south facing slopes of the hills are a centre for the renascent wine industry, particularly the vineyard of Nyetimber.


Uppark House, West Sussex (National Trust)

 




St Mary's church, West Chiltington.  A typical Sussex village architectural style.

An interesting homily on the Old Rectory wall, Kirdford, West Sussex.


 

I recently spent an enjoyable few hours in Winchester Cathedral.  The tour was delivered by a very knowledgeable elderly volunteer who knew a lot of the history.    I was told that the tours began on the hour and the half hour.  Arriving at 2 minutes to the hour, I was directed to the nave where the tour had already started.  ‘I’m sorry’, I told the senior organiser, ‘I was told that they were on the hour and the half hour.’  He smiled benignly.  ‘After nearly ten centuries, I’m afraid we don’t have quite that precise sense of time’, he said gently.  I then put away my ‘Type A’ inclinations for the rest of the afternoon.

 

Two Americans were with us.  During any items of history prior to about 1776 they looked vague and smiled.  The guide tried to explain that the West window looked like a kaleidoscope because Cromwell’s soldiers, in about 1642, had looted the castle’s liquor, and smashed as much as they could find in the cathedral, attempting to find treasure.  The people of the city gathered the broken glass and some 20 years later the window was restored in its present form.  The Americans looked very puzzled when the subject of the Reformation came up, and the destruction of idolatrous images or statues.  After the tour, I attempted to help them make sense of the general lack of catholic imagery and hagiography in English churches.  ‘Have you been to Edinburgh?’ I asked.  ‘Oh yes’, was the reply.  ‘We’re going there.’

‘Well, Scotland was rigidly Presbyterian, and against any images at all.  If you go into St Giles’ church in Edinburgh, you can see that it took them several hundred years before they replaced plain glass with any images at all.  So, in the late 19th Century the beautiful stained glass was designed and constructed by the Pre-Raphaelites.’

‘Who were the Pre-Raphaelites?’

At that point I decided that I wasn’t cut out to be a tour guide, particularly for Americans.  It reminded me of Lindsay’s Viennese tour, where, stopping in front of the Hofburg Palace, the guide explained to the largely American tourists, that it had been the Imperial Palace of the House of Habsburg for some 600 years.  ‘Did the Habsburgs change their name to Hofburg, then?’ was the enquiry.

It also reminded me of the time when I was asked by an attractive American girl, who also lived at International Students House, if I knew anyone who could take her to a cricket match.  I would have loved to but was busy with medical school attachments.  My best friend from school was approached, and he agreed to take her to Lord’s to watch an MCC match against New Zealand.

‘How did it go, Mike?’, I enquired when next we met (there were no mobile phones in those days).

‘Mac’, he said, ‘Never do that to me again, will you?’

 

Now, continuing my Winchester theme, who is this, commemorated there in a stone tablet on the floor of the north aisle?

 

‘In memory of…

The benevolence of her heart, the ∫weetne∫s of her temper, and the extraordinary endowments of her mind obtained the regard of all who knew her and the warme∫t love of her intimate connections.

Their grief is in proportion to their affection they know their lo∫s to be irreparable, but in their deepe∫t affliction they are con∫oled by a firm though humble hope that her charity, devotion, faith and purity, have rendered her ∫oul acceptable in the ∫ight of her

                                                                REDEEMER.’

 

Here is the marble stone:

 


 



Jane Austen died at the early age of 41.  For my medical readers, the subject of her final illness has been a lasting and much speculated condition.  Both Northanger Abbey and Persuasion were published posthumously.  She came to Winchester for help in her illness, but to no avail.  It seems likely that her burial in the cathedral was facilitated by the fact that her father was the Reverend George Austen, formerly rector of Steventon in Hampshire.  Otherwise, it would have been unusual for a commoner to be buried there, particularly as she was not yet celebrated for her authorship.  Her writings were not mentioned until a much later brass plaque was placed on the north wall of the cathedral nearby.

 

Sir Zachary Cope, a famous surgeon, first suggested that Jane may have had Addison’s Disease (adrenal gland failure), because about the only medical description we have of her condition is in a letter from her elder sister Cassandra to her niece, Fanny Knight.  Pigmentation of her skin is mentioned (a feature of Addison’s Disease).  Other features of her illness do not necessarily confirm a diagnosis, and some have suggested that Hodgkin’s lymphoma, with its remitting fever, may have been responsible.  Cope believed that her Addison’s Disease could have been due to tuberculosis – then a common cause of widespread destructive inflammation.  When I was a student, we were taught to remember TB in cases of lymphoma.  The famous phrase, ‘TB follows Hodgkin’s Disease “Like a Shadow”’.  The two illnesses are not mutually exclusive, therefore.  Others have suggested lupus and the short answer is that we cannot know, partly because much of her correspondence was destroyed after her death.

 

The visit to Winchester was occasioned by my wife having some eye surgery at a hospital near Southampton.  While awaiting ‘check in’ it was mildly amusing to watch the discomfort of a gentleman, whom we shall call ‘Mr Davis’, also registering for some surgery when the receptionist said, ‘Oh and we have as your next of kin Mrs Samantha Davis.’  His new and much younger model was sitting nearby, and he had to explain sotto voce that his ‘next of kin’ had changed.

 

 

I came across a rather sad and poignant item.  Searching for another player’s golf ball, I picked up, deep in the heather and gorse, a near perfect ball which bore the printed inscription ‘Happy Birthday Dad.  Here’s to an Ace.’  An Ace, for those not of a golfing persuasion, is a hole-in-one on a par three hole.  The poignancy reminded me of the famous shortest ever story (six words), even more heart-rending: ‘For Sale.  Baby shoes.  Never worn.’  It is misattributed to Hemingway but appeared early in the 20th century when Hemingway would have been a child.  Similar hopes and dreams…

 

 May 10th et seq.

I journeyed to Scotland for our two yearly Ryder Cup for Cardiologists.  Five days of golf, mostly on East Lothian courses, but with one trip over to Royal Troon.  The weather was challenging and cold for the most part.  We beat the Americans…

12th green, Kilspindie Golf Club, May 12th.  Heavy squalls, including hail

Troon beach from the golf course.  Looking across the Firth of Clyde towards Arran

8th Hole, Royal Troon G.C.  The infamous 'Postage Stamp', surrounded by bunkers

Sunset over Arran, taken from Highgrove House restaurant.


 

This was followed a few days later with a two day trip to Rye Golf Club.  For those who have not been there, Rye is a magnificent town to visit.  Having been a vital port in the 13th and 14th centuries, steady ingress of pebbles and sand washed into the bay has resulted in the hilltop town now being two miles from the sea.  The golf club and course has had gradual increments of land such that there is sufficient acreage behind the dunes to create an additional golf course.  Here is a picture taken in 1913.  It shows ‘Mrs Brodrick and Lady Maude Warrender standing on the 12th tee’.  The vast expanse of sea visible is now land, and there is another half to three-quarters of a mile before one reaches the dunes behind the beach.

 


Rye Golf Club, 1913

 

 

Sunday May 17th

A letter from Chris Cox appeared in the Telegraph today, which I quote in full:

‘From a Labour era of political heavyweights to a party dominated by shallow careerists’

‘Sir – Fifty years ago, the Labour Party could choose between James Callaghan, Roy Jenkins, Michael Foot, Denis Healey, Tony Benn and Anthony Crosland: a front bench of heavyweights who had read deeply, fought hard and, on occasion, won arguments.  Several were products of the grammar schools their own party destroyed.

Today we are invited to marvel over Wes Streeting, Angela Rayner, Ed Miliband and Andy Burnham, as though a talent for broadcast clips and stakeholder jargon is evidence of statesmanship.  They have all risen without trace: politicians who leave no intellectual footprint, no memorable phrase, no sense that history would notice if they vanished tomorrow.

The ancients warned that those whom the gods wish to destroy they first make mad.  Ours is a country apparently determined to prove the point, entrusting itself to a political class of weightless careerists who would once have struggled to rise beyond junior ministerial obscurity.’

 

I realise that many of my overseas friends will not particularly know these personalities, but they too have their own problems with those in government who could not be classed as statesmen.  The precepts apply in their case too.

 

When I was a student, I had to give a speech of thanks to Roy Jenkins, who was the speaker at a dinner at International Students House.  His speech was urbane, witty, and highly enjoyable, delivered entirely without notes.  I was in awe.  I gave my pre-rehearsed speech and was afterwards introduced.  I told him that I was impressed at such a fluent and amusing speech delivered without notes.  ‘Well, you see’, he said politely, ‘I’ve had a lot of practice.’

 

I remember he told a story about a member of the House of Lords who was put on some sort of London transport committee.  It was known that Lord … always used his chauffeur to travel.  The problems of London congestion did not seem to bother him particularly.  One exasperated member of the committee suggested that the next time he left his club he should try coming to the House by bus.  At the next meeting he arrived very late, looking hot and flustered.  ‘Did you try the bus?’ somebody enquired.  ‘Yes, I did’, he said, ‘and it was a disaster.  I got on the bus and told the conductor to take me to the House of Lords and he downright refused.’

 

Continuing the theme of those who do not seem to inhabit the real world, a friend who is a JP told me of a judge he knew who was presiding over a divorce case where it seems that mediation had led to an agreement whereby the separating parties agreed to meet at McDonald’s once a week for handover of children to the other parent.  The judge concerned remarked that this seemed quite an imposition for Mr and Mrs McDonald, and did they not mind the responsibility for hosting meetings for the family every week?

 

June 1st, 2026

 

Coming to the end of a remarkable May heatwave, we journeyed to London to see what was alleged to be Lulu’s last ever concert at the Royal Albert Hall.  The concert was in aid of a mental health charity, so whatever misgivings one had at being once again subjected to ‘Boom Bang-a-Bang’ (Eurovision song contest winner) were put aside.  Lulu hit the top ten of the pop charts in 1964 at the age of 15 with a cover version of the Isley Brothers’ record, ‘Shout’.  Her voice was a literal expression of the song title.  But she could also hold a tune.  Just as Cilla Black proved her vocal worth in her rendition of the extremely complex tune of ‘Alfie’ by Burt Bacharach, so Lulu in her singing of the theme tune from the film ‘To Sir With Love’ proved that she was not just a shouter.  And the original hook to the announcement that she would be accompanied by ‘Friends’ suggested it might be an interesting evening.

 

Dinner at the Hard Rock Café (steak too tough, surroundings too loud, some of the memorabilia not up to scratch, e.g. a Fender Stratocaster allegedly signed by the members of Queen has almost all the writing expunged; difficult if not impossible to find a main course dish containing fewer than 1000 calories) and off to a very warm RAH.  Audience at the Hall mostly of a certain age (some sticks and wheelchairs) and a significant proportion of Scottish accents, but the atmosphere was genial.

 

The word ‘Accueil’ appeared on the big screen in front of us, but it turned out to be a flourish of indecipherable script announcing ‘Gcielle’, a ‘new’ singer-songwriter, whose words were entirely impenetrable, even though she proudly announced her latest song was about her favourite city, Rome.  It might as well have been in Latin.  The bass guitar player front of stage made impressive suggestive pelvic movements (copied from Blondie circa 1978), though the finest musician appeared to be the saxophonist.  As was said of the Cliff Richard musical ‘Heathcliff’, ‘After an hour and a half had gone by, I looked at my watch to discover that only twenty minutes had elapsed.’   Thus, Gcielle.  The set lasted just over half an hour, and the next 35 minutes was spent in dismantling her band’s gear and setting up and tuning Lulu’s team’s guitars.

 

But from just after 8pm until 10 it was full on Lulu.  Never mind if her rendition of ‘To Sir With Love’ did not quite display the vocal ability of nearly 60 years ago.  But it was when her guests started to appear that the party really warmed up.  Firstly, Delta Goodrem, a lady who is big in Australia, and mysteriously sang the Australian entry in the recent Eurovision Song Contest (sic).  Then Boy George, flamboyant as usual, but struggling with locomotion (his, not the Little Eva song).  Inevitably it was Karma Chameleon.  Then Gary Barlow, and finally Robbie Williams, to the delight of much of the female audience including my wife.  Robbie shambled on in an impressive suit of large pyjamas (well, it looked like that), but after the first song (Angels, of course), removed the jacket to reveal his ripped torso and tattoos in a small black vest.  Again, cue ecstasies of middle-aged female delight.

 

It wasn’t so much the quality of the concert (even Lindsay admitted it was not the finest she had attended – and she saw the Beatles at the Bournemouth Winter Gardens), but the venue, the good cause, and the uniqueness of seeing Lulu, Gary, and Robbie singing together made it a special evening.  Here is the evidence:

 






Packing activities in, I visited the Imperial War Museum.  I had not been there for about 50 years.  Its exhibitions are superb and I was pleased to see a number of school trips being shown around.  The holocaust section is not recommended for younger visitors, and indeed you need a strong stomach to fully take in the horrors.

There are some magnificent paintings on display, and at least at the moment, there is an exhibition of wartime art in London, 1939-45.  Well worth seeing.

 

Imperial War Museum, Lambeth Road, SE1

The Mule Track by Paul Nash, Belgium, 1918

A curious coincidence.  A poster from 1925.  A very different event to that which we attended.

Shipbuilding on the Clyde.  Stanley Spencer, 1940.  Shows the frenetic need to build ships for the navy.

Battle of Britain, Paul Nash.  Painted 1941.  While not an exact image of the dogfights in 1940, Nash attempted to display the confusion of the war in the skies.



There should be much more to talk about, or at least meander on about.  I should feel guilty choosing the topics I do when there is so much of real import in the world (Wars, earthquakes, crime, deranged Presidents).  I console myself in noting that during the height of the London blitz, George Orwell was more concerned about his geese at his little smallholding to the north of London.

 

I hesitate to bring this forward for readers’ attention, but I was deeply troubled by the turning over of the entire area of Trafalgar Square in London to a Muslim prayer event.  The sight of all those upturned buttocks was not only risible, but depressing.  But then (pace my friends who are deeply religious) I find religion depressing.  Again, I think it was Bertrand Russell who said, or rather, wrote: ‘It is possible that mankind is on the threshold of a golden age; but, if so, it will be necessary to slay the dragon that guards the door, and this dragon is religion.’

 

Belatedly (there are echoes not only of World War 2, but also possibly, The Great War) in our lack of preparedness in defence; announcements have been made about increasing the defence budget.  Our navy is mostly in dry dock; our new tanks do not work.  ‘New’ war is technologically different.  Perhaps all those adolescents who just play computer war games in their bedrooms, will be our saviour in the ‘New’ Army.  (I almost said New Model Army).

 

Matt, in the Daily Telegraph, as usual, has the apposite cartoon.



 

We have muddled through some challenging heatwaves recently, and another one approaches (early July).

 

I will end with two stories.  During the very hot weather, I was playing golf with a Scottish friend, an anaesthetist, who suggested that we cut across from the 12th to the 17th hole, and return to the clubhouse as soon as possible.  While walking, our minds not particularly on golf but on survival and the choice of cold drink awaiting.  He asked me about my research on beta-blocking drugs during exercise.  He also quizzed me about intra-operative and peri-operative effects and potential benefits.  He asked me if I had heard of a famous Professor of Anaesthetics who had done much research in the field.  The name was not particularly familiar.  This Professor had been asked to deliver a keynote lecture in Oslo on the topic.  Of substantial self-importance, he complied willingly and was therefore seated as a guest of honour on the high table at a suitably magnificent post-conference feast.  His neighbour asked politely for the Prof’s views on various topics, not least his own research, which he was never shy of talking about.  Eventually, after listening in apparent awe to Prof X’s extensive knowledge of just about everything; anaesthetic, political, geographical, historical; the Prof – as an afterthought – indulged the man by enquiring what he did for a living.  ‘Well, I’m the King of Norway’, said his neighbour.

 

Finally, for almost every entry in the diary, I could quote from Private Eye’s ‘Pseuds Corner’, a column which has been going almost as long as the magazine.  Skewering the pompous, the wordy, and the sometimes near impenetrable outpourings of creative journalists, here is my favourite recent entry from a long list of possibles:

 

The Luce is more than the thinking man’s (or woman’s) Ferrari, the sort of motor car that Hamlet would have enjoyed taking for a spin around Elsinore on a Sunday afternoon between existential crises.  NICHOLAS FOULKES on Ferrari’s new electric car, Financial Times.

 

Until the next time…

 

July 3rd, 2026.

Tuesday, March 24, 2026

Evening Hill Diaries 19 -towards Easter 2026

 


 

Friday December 12th, 2025

 

One of the few days without rain.  Continuing mild and some watery winter sun.  Much tidying and hands and knees stuff in the garden to be done.  The boredom only alleviated by listening to the music stream of the new 50th Anniversary edition of Pink Floyd’s ‘Wish You Were Here’ album.  An extended release with many outtakes.  Most intriguing is the mournful solo by the violinist Stephane Grappelly* on a never before released version of the ‘Wish You Were Here’ track.

*  Wikipedia has Stéphane Grappelli, which is probably accurate, but on all my vinyl discs (mostly including Django Reinhardt) dating back many years the anglicized version above is given.


Early December, 2025


 

New Year

The Isle of Wight, tranquil and a calm sea on January 2nd.

 



Monday January 12th, 2026

Christmas negotiated though I had Covid starting a few days before it.  Shortish illness and rapid disappearance of that dreaded second red line on the test strip.  Despite the naysaying of RFK Jr, I do believe the vaccinations may have had something to do with the rapid clearing and no sequelae.

 

More to write I’m sure, but I wanted to record my experience of yesterday, driving from a friend’s house in East Somerset to Winscombe which is in the west of the county, and not far from Weston Super Mare.  In high wind, cloud, and driving rain along the spine of the Mendip Hills, passing signs for mysterious places such as Gurney Slade and Chewton Mendip.  Visiting friends in an internally restored 14th Century farmhouse, and then on via a deserted Wells to another friend in the tiny hamlet of Hadspen.  It is surely unusual to take a photograph of Wells Cathedral with no one in sight…




The sign for Gurney Slade reminds me of a strange time in my childhood…

I attended – for two years only – the grammar school in Haverfordwest.  Not my favourite memory.  Run on Victorian lines, it occupied ancient buildings at the top of the town, a long walk uphill from the bus station.  Boarding the bus in Trecwn, an Admiralty armament depot in the middle of nowhere, there was a miscellany of passengers.  I remember the adult girls in their 1950s outfits and beehive hair, sometimes even in curlers with plastic covers to keep the rain off.  All travelling to Haverfordwest to work as shop assistants or in secretarial jobs.  There was a mixture of Welsh boys, also heading for the market town where most of the employment was.  The more outré among them sporting Teddy Boy haircuts, the ‘D.A.’ and drainpipe trousers.  It was a long journey, even after joining the winding A40, and the bus was often stopped for quarter of an hour awaiting the blasting in Treffgarne* quarries, while the road was closed to traffic.  In the inevitable Welsh rain, one arrived after the 15-minute walk uphill sodden and had to sit shivering in class until clothes dried.

* Treffgarne is Welsh for ‘Town of the Rock’.

During my second year, we moved back to Fishguard and made the acquaintance of one of the sixth formers, a near neighbour, called Anthony Slade.  The bizarre TV comedy, ‘The Strange World of Gurney Slade’, a BBC indulgence of the singer Anthony Newley, resulted in Anthony being renamed ‘Gurney’.  Gurney was 17 and had a driving licence.  Even more remarkable, he owned a ‘bubble car’, probably the most famous of that ilk, the BMW Isetta.  This microscopic vehicle, now worth around £32,000, had a front opening hatch, and the steering wheel and dashboard opened to allow 2 people to cram inside.  Quite how my parents allowed me to accompany Gurney to Haverfordwest G.S. I have no idea.  The A40 in 1960-61 was not particularly safe for a tiny three-wheeler.  Nonetheless, I survived.  The obliging Gurney also kindly introduced me to cigarettes.  It was with some relief that my parents moved to Bath, where I attended a kinder if somewhat eccentrically run school, where only the most reprobate of pupils smoked.  I say ‘eccentrically’, because of course, with 20-20 hindsight we can appreciate the sometimes-odd characteristics of the staff, though at the time, just like any other school pupil, it passed for normal.

 

More January news:

 

A sign of the extraordinary self-preoccupation of Hollywood.  It is Golden Globes time in the city of Sodom, California.  A sleekly clad Barbie (who research tells me was probably Nikki Glaser) announces, with unabashed sincerity, ‘The most important thing happening in the world right now is the Golden Globes.’  Really?  What about peaceful protesters being shot in cold blood in cities in Iran?  What about Ukraine, Gaza, Syria, Venezuela?  But as William Sitwell has written in the Daily Telegraph, ‘When Meghan can make £27 million selling jam you know society is broken.’  I rest my case.

 

I recently posted a picture of my wife with Antoine Semenyo, the footballer, who has now joined Manchester City for a very substantial sum.  In a new reworking of a very old joke, I posited that in this photo of the happy couple, one was worth many millions of pounds, and the other was Antoine Semenyo.


Lindsay with Antoine


 

As part of my early January travels, I visited a friend in Buckinghamshire.  On the way I paid a long overdue visit to Bletchley Park, just to the south of Milton Keynes.  Bletchley, a then remote spot outside London, became the headquarters of the GC&CS (Government Code and Cypher School, now better known as GCHQ) in the 1930s when it was appreciated that war with Germany was inevitable.  The original GC&CS in WWI was the famous ‘Room 40’ and was situated in Whitehall.  The increased radio traffic and complexity of code breaking led to a steady increase in personnel during WWII.  It increased from about 200 in 1939 to nearly 10,000 by the end of the war.  Multiple huts were built to accommodate the staff, many of which are still standing, and recreated as nearly as possible to their wartime appearance, even to the old telephones and the cardigans hanging on the backs of the chairs.

Many language experts, university dons, mathematicians, and even chess and crossword champions were enlisted to help with codebreaking.  The most famous, of course, was Alan Turing, but others made huge contributions to the machines which were in effect the first computers.

The breaking of the Enigma code, and the Lorenz code, is thought to have reduced the duration of the war by up to two years.  In the process, the famous ‘Bombe’ machines and the computer ‘Colossus’ were designed and built.

In Shakespeare’s Henry the Fifth, the treacherous Earls Cambridge, Scroop, and Grey are confronted by the King in Southampton, before the departure for France.  The Earls of Westmoreland and Exeter whisper to one another before the entry of the King and the traitors.  An apposite quotation sits on the panelling of the entrance hall of the old manor house in Bletchley Park.

The words of Westmoreland and Exeter


Statue of Alan Turing, Bletchley Park


 

 

Lenzerheide.  17th to 24th January 2026.

Après ski.  In my case, the après ski is only too literal.  After more than 50 years, I have relinquished skiing.  The snow is shrinking, and the slopes are crowded with undesirables – a generalisation I know, but if you had seen the scruffy, snotty youths waiting for the Sportbus in Lenzerheide the other day, clutching their half-finished cans of Red Bull and vapes, you might feel the same.  Even my friend Marina, a local, winner of many ski races in her youth, was nearly wiped out by an out-of-control skier the other day.  We took to the walking paths, around into the Obervaz valley, above the Albula river, and away from the noise of the slopes, and walked in tranquillity and beauty.

On our last day of walking, we hiked to the smaller satellite village of Lenz (Lantsch in Romansch).  Here is a picture of its ski slope (1300m altitude).

Lenz.  January 23rd, 2026

The villagers have recently had a briefing meeting on how to sustain the Lenzerheide economy when the snow vanishes.  Already famous for mountain biking world championships, the town will have to adapt somehow.


A distant view of the Rigi, by Lake Lucerne, taken from above Lake Zurich.  The Rigi was famously painted by Turner in watercolour.


 

Lenzerheide, January 2026

A View of the Lenzerhorn during my birthday lunch at the Tgantieni Hotel

Lenzerheide and Valbella are home to some quirky sculptures

 


With few hotels (though many apartments), perhaps it could rival its near neighbour, Davos, in holding some important world event?  The tentacles of the WEF (World Economic Forum) spread this far anyway, many locals hosted delegates to the WEF on Air BnB during the week we were there.  There are regular buses and trains to Davos.

 

Davos also came to my attention during my visit at the house of a friend in Zürich.  Her friend’s father wrote and illustrated the definitive book on Thomas Mann (1875-1955).  A presentation copy was on her bookshelf.  Mann was born in Lübeck (Germany), but after various wanderings, lived a few streets away from my friend, in Küsnacht, on Lake Zürich.  Although a Lutheran, his opposition to Nazism meant that he left Germany in 1933.  His wife, Katia, came from a secular Jewish family, and it was her treatment in the famous Davos sanatorium for (misdiagnosed) tuberculosis which gave Mann the inspiration for his most famous novel, The Magic Mountain (Die Zauberberg, 1924), in which the hospital becomes a microcosm for Germany and Europe in the years after WW1.

I read this novel as a medical student, though a further re-reading many years later suggests that either I skim-read its 750 pages, or perhaps just focussed on the medical aspects of the novel.  I found the detailed description of the medical assessment after the hero (anti-hero?) Hans Castorp, is admitted to the sanatorium, fascinating.  There is the insatiable and introspective delight the inmates take in discussing their fever or lack of it.  One review of the novel however points out that the description of taking one’s body temperature goes on for 26 pages.  Trying to re-read it in my late fifties I found it impossible.  I cannot remember who it was who said, ‘It’s okay not to finish a book; put it down and forget it.’  I have never been very good at following that advice, but as one gets older it is probably an imperative.

 

This digression (forgive me) is taking over.  If one asks Google (AI) about the novel, and whether it is unreadable, one finds the following:

“Die Zauberberg (The Magic Mountain) by Thomas Mann is generally not considered "unreadable," but it is widely regarded as a highly challenging, slow-paced, and dense intellectual masterpiece. It is a quintessential Bildungsroman and "time-novel" that demands patience, often described as a rewarding experience for those who commit to its length and depth”.

Well, AI has put me in my place.  I have some sympathy with ‘Gonzo’, a reviewer on Amazon books, who stated:

“It's like Proust divested of any beauty or profundity.

I get the feeling he read the first volume of 'A la recherche du temps perdu' and said to himself, "I can do that".

But he has nothing to say. And if at times he thinks he might, then he usually checks himself.

Mann is not an artist, he is just a writer.

Read something else, because in the case of 'Der Zauberberg', lost time is not found again”.

 

My interest was further stimulated because our close friends in Lenzerheide, Marina and Claudio Bergamin, must be related to the world expert on Thomas Mann in Davos, Herr Klaus Bergamin.  In particular, he lectures on the history of the Schatzalp Hotel, which was one of the original sanatoria (TB bacilli an optional extra). *

* A joke.  I don’t want to be sued by the hotel management.  Its website is full of fascinating facts – for example, Kaiser Wilhelm II never visited but reserved all three Imperial rooms continuously for 10 years in case any members of his family contracted tuberculosis.

 

Without a trace of irony, the hotel website states:

“At Schatzalp, guests have always enjoyed preferential treatment: emperors, princesses, famous people with well-sounding names… and you. Genuine hospitality means that everyone should feel like royalty in our house. The unobtrusively attentive staff of our house ensures here, at an altitude of 1865 metres, an unforgettable stay, from first “Welcome” to the final “Au revoir”. We have 92 hotel rooms, a chalet, the villa and an apartment. Find all the details & prices here.”

I loved the ‘final “Au revoir”’!

It reminded me of Hotel California – “You can check out any time you want, but you can never leave.”

 

Taken from the Schatzalp website


A footnote: the earliest high-altitude treatment for TB began in Görbersdorf in the mountains of Silesia (now Poland) and the physician was a Dr Hermann Brehmer (1854).  Dr Alexander Spengler (Davos) began his treatment independently in the 1860s.  ‘Heliotherapy’ in Leysin began in 1903, and Dr Edward Livingston Trudeau opened his sanatorium on the lake at Saranac Lake (upstate New York) in 1884.  Curiously, I have lived and worked in Saranac Lake, though at a different hospital.  Robert Louis Stevenson, among others, was an inmate in Trudeau’s hospital.  There was some logic to the high altitude treatment: it was found that tubercle bacilli thrived less well when deprived of oxygen.  This finding was also responsible for the devastating type of lung surgery where the infected apex of the lung (TB was often lodged in the apex) was collapsed deliberately.  The upper ribs on the affected side were also removed leaving a hideously distorted chest.  I saw many patients who had undergone ‘thoracoplasty’, as it was called, during my early years of medical practice.  The arrival of streptomycin killed off not only the bacilli, but the disfiguring surgery and the financial success of the high-altitude clinics.

 

February 16th

Not only rain but high winds.  A bedraggled and torn flag of Poole on our flagpole.  18th February.


A long hiatus.  What can you say of day after day of rain?

‘And as I watch the drops of rain/Weave their weary paths and die…’

Six Nations rugby has come round again.  After a depressing defeat in heavy rain in Rome, Scotland came back to their home territory of Murrayfield, and roundly defeated England.


The Flower of Scotland.  The earliest published version of the song by The Corries, and now Scotland's almost official national anthem.  My annotations of my preferred key.

I bought this book when it first came out.  Now a collector's item.




But I also watched France defeat Wales by 54 points to 12 at the Principality stadium in Cardiff.  It was with a heavy heart.  I learned to play rugby at the school in Haverfordwest, in an atmosphere so laden with rugby importance that I remember being given the afternoon off to watch an old boy of the school, M.S. Palmer, play scrum half for Oxford in the Varsity match on Tuesday December 6th, 1960.  But socio-political factors are destroying rugby in Wales, and it is sad to see their decline:

‘C’est magnifique, mais ce n’est pas la guerre.  C’est de la folie.’  French General Bosquet in 1855, observing the Charge of the Light Brigade.

So felt I watching Wales concede eight tries.

 

February 17th Shrove Tuesday

Our walking group convened at the Iron Age hillfort of Badbury Rings.  Despite this being a modest upland area, the terrain was heavy and muddy.  I would not ordinarily record details of our walks save for one remarkable piece of farming trivia, vouchsafed to us by our farming member.  For reasons of discretion, I will not name exact places or names.

Towards the end of this near 7-mile walk, when one or two of us were feeling fatigued, we stopped by a giant puddle for a group photograph.  We were told that we were standing in front of a famous field.  Unremarkable now, just a field of green.

Some years ago, when the government programme of ‘Set Aside’ was first announced, a local farmer, not the most enthusiastic worker, declared his entire property ‘Set Aside’, put his feet up, and collected the money.  This did not sit well with his farming friends.  But this field began to grow the most remarkable acreage of poppies.  So dense and so spectacular was this display that when the makers of ‘Blackadder Goes Forth’ were searching for their final scene after our heroes go ‘over the top’, they were directed to this farm near Shapwick.  And there it is, as the final bombardment falls on Blackadder and his comrades, the hell of the trenches is replaced by a tranquil vista of Dorset poppies.

Walkers with puddle.  Ex poppy field in the background.



The field in 1989


Winter Olympics.  Mercifully ending Sunday 22nd February 

Chemmy Alcott (sitting in the ‘expert’ chair.  4-time Olympian, as we are reminded) – ‘monumental, massive, iconic’.  I haven’t heard so many iconics since the last Olympics.  We managed a silver in Men’s Curling, and our tea tray slider won 2 gold medals.

 

1st March.  St David’s Day.  We departed Bournemouth airport for a package week in Fuerteventura.  Intrigued to see the large number of Bournemouth holidaymakers who feel it compulsory to order pints of overpriced lager at seven o’clock in the morning, in order to ‘get into the holiday spirit’.

 

Fuerteventura, despite assertions, is probably not translated as ‘Strong Winds’, though some would have it so.  Nonetheless, with winds continuously at Force 5 to Force 9 during the week, the ‘feels like’ temperature remained in single figures.  A few beached whales were to be seen on the more sheltered of hotel’s loungers, generally swathed in fleeces and towels, and reading Richard Osman books.  We took the meteorological hint to spend most of our time hiking or walking the beaches.  There was also plenty of time for reading.  In order of increasing size, I read ‘Leonard and Hungry Paul’, Hamnet, and ‘The Blind Assassin’, the latter weighing in at 640 pages.

Hamnet is the novel of the moment, though I have left it several years before reading it.  The film, recently made, is widely tipped to gain Oscars in Sodom, California.  But I found it somewhat overblown, overwritten, with much purple prose, and I find faction a difficult genre at the best of times.  Perhaps the finest current exponent of the near-historical novel is Robert Harris.  Of his novels, ‘An Officer and a Spy’, which concerns the Dreyfus Case, gives a truer picture, with much more historical fact than we find in Hamnet.  In fairness, of course, Shakespeare, his life and his family, is a much more fact-free zone.  Although I did not particularly like ‘The Blind Assassin’, Margaret Atwood is a much finer writer.  Her similes and metaphors carry no hint of cliché.  Example:  Iris Griffen, the main protagonist, an elderly and independently minded survivor with secrets to hide (as have all the characters), has a housekeeper called Myra:

‘Myra had left me one of her special brownies, whipped up for the Alumni Tea – a slab of putty, covered in chocolate sludge – and a plastic screw-top jug of her very own battery-acid coffee.  I could neither drink not eat, but why did God make toilets?  I left a few brown crumbs, for authenticity’.

Although the book won the Booker Prize, I am not alone in feeling reservations about it.  The New York Times critic, Thomas Mallon, called the book ‘overlong and badly written’.  I wouldn’t necessarily agree with the second stricture, but the science fiction interludes which introduce the concept of the blind assassin are tedious.

Which did I enjoy most?  Well, ‘Leonard and Hungry Paul’, by Ronan Hession.  There were many laugh out loud moments.  But there were poignancies and finely characterised scenes of modern life.  At the risk of racial stereotyping, perhaps the facility for quirky observation is a gift that the Irish have?

Before leaving the literature theme, here is a great quotation from a curious book by Laurent Binet, about the ghastly Reinhard Heydrich, and it pertains to faction.  This is what I wrote in my diary in 2021:

The author (Laurent Binet) expresses his disgust of realistic novels.  His girlfriend finds a quotation from a French author’s life of Bach.  ‘Has there ever been a biographer who did not dream of writing, “Jesus of Nazareth used to lift his left eyebrow when he was thinking”?  Yuk’!  He says.

 

So much for ‘faction’.  Pace Maggie O’Farrell.

 

As all will be aware, our trip to Fuerteventura coincided with the latest war that the Donald has started – started so that he can stop it presumably.  Nobel Committee please take note.  The news clips in the Canaries were mostly about the Middle East.  During WWII the British characteristic phlegmatism was widely recognised – perhaps the usual meme was the ‘Let’s put the kettle on and have a cup of tea’.  This spirit exists today.  On arrival back home last Sunday (8th March), we switched the TV on to be greeted with … Crufts!  Yes, the doggy beauty and talent contest.  Delighted to see that the supreme champion was a spaniel who looked just like his owner.  Phlegm – yes, we own the world in this quality.

In case many of my readers think that this blog is absolutely of no value at all, let me offer you some practical advice, and indeed a recipe.

Walking back from the town of Corralejo along the beach to our hotel, a not insignificant stroll of over a mile, we light on the ‘Sunset Bar’ just behind the beach.  A slightly ramshackle establishment with some raffia or straw indicating its beachy credentials, but the staff are friendly.  Lindsay and I order sangrias.  Although some bars (the better ones) produce a delightful cocktail of fruits as garnish, including mango, pineapple, etc, this one, a little disappointingly has only diced apple in with the ice cubes and the red concoction, but it tastes divine.  And when we rise to stagger back along the beach, we become aware of its potency.  Unusually, the bartender is happy to reveal his recipe.  ‘As well as red wine and Sprite’, he says, ‘we add banana liqueur, triple sec, and brandy’.  Wow.  You read it here first.  Bananas are grown in the Canary Islands, and the banana liqueur is local.  But when I suggest buying a bottle in the airport duty free Lindsay vetoes the idea.

 

Good wind in Fuerteventura

Even better wind

So we climbed the Calderon Hondo (without camel aid)



St Patrick’s Day (a Tuesday).

We returned yesterday, a day early, from a somewhat abortive holiday in the Forest of Bowland.  We have long wanted to explore this attractive area, much less well known than the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District, and not that far from either of them.  Our excuse for a trip in mid-March was that AFC Bournemouth were playing Burnley FC, languishing at the bottom of the Premier League. Surely a goal fest and an easy three points?  But dying folk cling desperately to life, and Burnley are in the same category.  At their ground, Turf Moor, where they have played since the 1880s, their resistance and resilience were such that the result was a nil-nil draw.  Bournemouth have a frustrating habit of not converting their chances, and in the absence of Antoine Semenyo, their penetration seems to have worsened.  The weather that Saturday afternoon was pleasant, but mad March came rollicking in overnight and the weather on Sunday was awful.  Our first planned walk was an ascent of Pendle Hill, a giant whale of a massif rising to nearly 1900 feet, to the south of Clitheroe.  Passing the ski centre (yes, the ski centre) we parked at the ‘Nick of Pendle’ and set off.  The summit quickly became invisible, and the wind and rain howled at our backs.  After three-quarters of an hour, Lindsay turned around.  A brief discussion ensued.  We turned back into the storm and downwards again.  The raindrops beat at our faces like hailstones, saving any expensive costs of exfoliation, and we retired, completely soaked through.  Our coaching inn in Bolton-by-Bowland allowed us to put most of our clothing in the boiler room.  I had the impression that they were well used to this requirement.  Socks and gloves could be wrung out, leaving puddles in the washbasin, before being draped over the towel rails.  Later in the day, in fresh clothing, we tried a different walk, but another front came through and we retired to bed at around 5pm to get warm (well it was a Grade II listed building with sash windows) and to hold a council of war.  The forecast for Monday was the same, so on Monday morning we left the Forest of Bowland with unfinished business, admiring the flowing streams and the little stone bridges surrounded by daffodils, and made our way along the A59 towards Preston and the M6.

Failed attempt at Pendle Hill


Clitheroe has more about it than just being an old Lancashire cotton town.  Before WWI there were 13 cotton mills – now of course closed.  But it was a border town (the Ribble valley being an important route across the Pennines) with a Norman castle dating from the 12th century.  Henry VI was briefly imprisoned there during the Wars of the Roses, before being transferred to the Tower of London.  The entire site is now a war memorial, and the WWI soldier statue placed in 1923, with downward gaze, faces south towards Pendle Hill.

 

Clitheroe war memorial on Castle Hill for those killed in WWI.  Pendle Hill is indistinct in the rain.

Few trips away are without their little compensations in people watching.  On Saturday evening, two couples were seated near us.  The older of the two men expounded at length on Avoriaz, and his skiing advice to the others who were contemplating a trip there.  So detailed, long, and laborious were his pronouncements that we christened him ‘Mr Avoriaz’.  Having exhausted a detailed description of the lift system he moved on to avalanches.  ‘Avalanches I Have Known.’  The following morning, over his porridge and black pudding, he was still outlining the delights and pitfalls of skiing in Avoriaz.

 

Friday March 20th

‘There’s no place like home’, as Dorothy had to say and repeat, clicking her ruby slippers, but we are off again – to London, for a twins’ joint 70th birthday party.  Their achievements, decorations, awards, and those of their children and partners leave us feeling like spectators, but the hospitality was wonderful and we value their friendship.  It also allowed us to experience some clement weather for a change, before Arctic air is expected to sweep in on March 25th.

 

There is an exhibition at the Serpentine North gallery of the latest works by David Hockney.  In his late 80s, he remains busy and productive.  One of his favourite works is the Bayeux tapestry, and he has visited it many times.  His iPad paintings of his ‘Year in Normandie’ have been seamlessly stitched together (I realise stitched is a misnomer) in a long Bayeux-like continuous display around three walls of the building.  Such a tranquil and beautiful experience.  In the centre of the gallery are some of his newest works, playful pieces with deliberately distorted perspective.  It also includes some abstract work, though I have seen a recent interview with Hockney in which he deplores the vast amount of abstract art around today.

Hockney.  A Year in Normandy.  2025.  Detail.


McLeod.  Fat Lady with Hockney.  2026.


 A small exhibition at the National Gallery on ‘Joseph Wright of Derby’ contains most of his famous paintings.  Wright expressed the growing interest in science in the 18th century, and many of his paintings use candlelight as a device to heighten the contrast between light and shadow.  This exaggerated form of chiaroscuro is known as tenebrism.  Here is his best-known work, An Experiment on a Bird in the Air Pump (1768).  The vacuum created rapidly depletes the oxygen available to the unfortunate bird, and the distressed reaction of the children is evident.

 

Joseph Wright of Derby.  An Experiment on a Bird in the Air Pump, 1768.

Too often, as I see it, when you look at a piece of abstract art, you have no idea at all whether the artist is a good draughtsman or painter of realistic subjects.  Too often it is the Emperor’s New Clothes.

Having made my final ex cathedra statement, it is probably time to pack up the blog for the time being.  We slide towards next weekend when the clocks go forward, and the weekend after when it is Easter.

But here are some sights of London in the Spring weather:

Chinatown

Green Park

A grey heron wanders around St James's park

St James, near the RAC club